Mdina
is known to many as a medieval, walled city. Its history,
however, dates back at the very least to the classical
period, when the whole area, including the present-day town of
Rabat, formed part of a Roman settlement.
Moreover, beyond the city’s walls, in the area known as ‘il-Bahrija’
(limits of Rabat), Punic remains were discovered, thereby
suggesting the importance of the general region even to
Malta’s earlier settlers.
But, more
specifically, Mdina’s size is said to have been reduced by
Malta’s Arab rulers, who added higher fortifications and a
moat for greater protection of the city. The city’s
appearance at that time must have been more like other Moorish
fortresses found in Northern Africa. In fact, the very name
‘Mdina’ is a derivation from the Arabic ‘Medina’.
The New
Masters
But with the
arrival of the Order of Saint John at Malta, its features were
destined to change as the city was renovated and restored.
Some buildings naturally date from before the Order’s
arrival. One such building is Palazzo Falzon, built around the
year 1233, as is suggested by the date on its façade. This palazzo
is more commonly known as the Norman House owing to its
architectural style. This was the place where the official
reception was held in honour of Malta’s latest ruler, the
newly arrived Grand Master Fra Philippe Villiers de l’Isle
Adam. This function followed the public ceremony in which the
Grand Master took oath to protect the Maltese Islands and the
rights of his new subjects.
Thereafter, the city was adorned with
baroque buildings, amongst which were various Churches and
Palaces.
Grand Master Fra Antoine Manoel de Vilhena was responsible for
the city’s restoration, around the year 1725, adding
contemporary Baroque aesthetics by rebuilding the Magisterial
Palace (later known as Palazzo Vilhena) and the city’s Main
Gate, following the earthquake of 1693, which caused
considerable damage in the old city.
The Cathedral, dedicated to the conversion of Saint
Paul, was also rebuilt between 1697 and 1702 on the plans
drawn by the famed Lorenzo Gafà.
Further restoration
was undertaken during Grand Master Hompesch’s brief rule,
before the islands’ capitulation to the French Republican
Army – under the leadership of General Vaubois – on June
10th.
The
French Takeover
Immediately
upon Napoleon’s arrival, by decrees issued on the 13th and
16th of June 1798, all coats of arms of the Order and of
Maltese Nobility were to be removed from façades (within 24
hours) and replaced by that of the French Republic (according
to the second decree). This was done in the name of Equality,
Liberty and Brotherhood, but also to spite the former ruling
classes; the privileged aristocrats.
At first, this may have gone down well with the Maltese
people, who had had enough of the Order’s oppressive rule.
But the high hopes of
the population were soon shattered when, on July 5th, a mere
month after their arrival, the new conquerors looted the Mdina
Cathedral of its silver.
Messing with their churches was the biggest crime the
French garrison could have committed against the fanatically
religious Maltese people of the time! That same month, less
than 3 weeks later, the Church of the Annunciation (Lunzjata)
and the Carmelite Monastery in Mdina were both closed down by
the French and, as if to prove that they hadn’t grasped the
gravity of their misdoings, in August they even closed down
the Benedictine Monastery in Birgu.
But their final act of abuse – the straw that broke the
camel’s back – came when, on September 2nd, the French
ordered the auctioning of the damask, richly draping the walls
of Mdina’s Carmelite Church. This was thwarted by the angry
crowd and, later that same day, rioting broke out.
French officer, Masson, and a group of his men were
killed at Rabat, giving rise to a state of high alert. French
troops gathered behind the walls of Malta’s fortified
cities, where they were blockaded by the Maltese militia until
their surrender 2 years later to the British fleet, under the
command of Captain Alexander Ball, Lord Nelson’s bright
star.
The Mdina blockade lasted only till the following day, when
Maltese men scaled the bastions so the rest of their company
could enter the city. The remaining French troops at Mdina
were eliminated and the People’s Council was again,
provisionally, set up. A
British Colony
The leaders of
the people, having sought the assistance of the British Navy
to oust the French and not wishing to have the Order
reinstated as the islands' rulers, asked for the protection of
the British Crown and, thus, become a part of its dominion.
This was to be the beginning of Malta's British occupation as
a Crown Colony and as a Military Base. More on this subject is
treated under the appropriate pages.
Centuries
later, during WW2, the old city -- located close to
Ta’ Qali aerodrome -- witnessed the prowess of the enemy’s
air force and the unrelenting bravery of the Allied crusaders
when defences were at an all time low. The Mdina walls served
to shelter people hailing from remote parts of Malta, refugees
crowding formerly unused buildings, escaping the blitz of the
harbour areas.
Present day Mdina is known as the ‘Silent City’ as
it allows limited access to traffic. Its unobstructed
bastions, elegant palaces and quaint, narrow streets narrate
volumes of historic accounts -- some legend, but mostly fact.
Mdina, Malta’s "Citta Notabile",
the walled city of the Romans, the Arabs, the feudal Lords of
the Spanish Crown and the Knights of Saint John, remains
Malta’s prime historic attraction. The magic never ends.
This page merely
scratches the surface of what Mdina has to offer. Within the
walls of our Silent City one can visit many
places of interest. The most obvious of these is the Cathedral
dedicated to the Conversion of Saint Paul, itself an artistic
masterpiece and a showplace of fine art. Other Museums and
places of interest include: the Cathedral Museum, housing
treasures by, among other masters, Albrecht Durer and the
Caravaggio; the Natural History Museum; the 'Mdina
Dungeons'; the 'Mdina Experience', an audio-visual
spectacle covering the city's history from the Roman era; the 'Medieval
Times', a guided-walk through 14th and 15th century life;
the 'Knights of Malta', another walk-through experience
with life-sized figures; and various Palazzos, some
purely for historic interest, for example Palazzo Falzon,
while others provide food and beverage in an unrivalled
ambience.
Mdina, has its own Local Council, distinct from that of
its larger neighbour, Rabat, which is itself a cradle
of historic locations and memorabilia.
Some of the pictures provided herein are taken from Rabat's Wignacourt
College Museum and for this -- and for so painstakingly
caring for our national treasures -- we thank them
wholeheartedly. The place is worth many visits!
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